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Tuesday, June 11, 2013

Europe's Alright

2. Budapest



More than alright, this city is one I could live in. We had an easy journey there, in first class for some reason, so it started off well. The walk from the train station was a long one and there was a lot of building work going on so in order to cross the road we were often diverted under bridges to tip toe across rickety planks. This obviously wasn't an unusual occurrence though, as locals practically ran across the flimsy structures.

The hostel was a haven, tucked away in a grey fronted building and locked behind towering iron gates. Towels and bedding fluttered over the balcony into the courtyard and we were welcomed into Lavender Circus. A lot of arty farty types had clearly spent a lot of time making the whole place suitably arty farty. They'd done a great job, fish tanks bubbled in windows, psychedelic music pulsed away quietly from some unknown source and mismatched furniture completed an entirely eclectic space.

On recommendation from the very nice hostel lady who we would later share a few drinks with, we spent our evening in csendes. This independent bar was a complete surprise, full of trendy hipsters crowded together on a mishmash of furniture while an echoey ceiling towered above them, the atmosphere was fantastic. Combine the crazy and painfully arty junk littering the graffitied walls with the super cheap alcohol and you have a fun place. I particularly liked the collection of barbies nailed to the toilet doors.

We spent our days walking through this inspiring city full of hidden palaces, interesting shops and bars and surprising hills, all with the backdrop of the powerful Danube. This ancient river separates the two parts of a city that has created more and more exciting bridges in order to bring buda and pest together. Climbing to the top of Gellert hill gave a stunning view of the river with the city buzzing away around it.

The baths were a real high point, heated by natural thermal springs, the water actually has to be cooled before we can enjoy its healing warmth. We stayed till it closed and enjoyed the sunset from the outdoor pools while hot jets of water poured over us from fountains lining the edge. Full of tourists, I'm sure the main baths are no longer frequented by locals but its worth going to this huge building in the park. I was skeptical but completely won over by the steamy sulphur and strangely relaxing atmosphere that comes with sitting in a bath with strangers.

A fantastic nightlife, baffling language and creativity on every corner as well as an amazing sense of history makes this city feel like it could be home.

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